Vintage Perfume - Shalimar by Guerlain

Discover the Love Story Behind this Iconic Scent

Nov 14, 2009

Shalimar is one of the great success stories of modern perfumery. A groundbreaking fragrance, it was inspired by the Taj Mahal.

Shalimar was made in 1921 and launched in 1925 by the legendary perfumer Jacques Guerlain, arguably the family's greatest nose. Eastern culture was extremely popular at the time, symbolising passion and decadence in the West, and Shalimar was one of the first 'Oriental' fragrances made by a European house in recent history (though of course Eastern countries have a long tradition of perfumery stretching back centuries).

There are two stories about the inspiration behind the scent. The first is that Jacques Guerlain was moved by the story behind the Taj Mahal. Seventeenth century Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (1592-1666) was so heartbroken by the death of his favourite wife and constant companion Mumtaz Mahal that he built the famous mausoleum for her. Both are emtombed there. He also made part of the Gardens of Shalimar (literally 'Gardens of Love') in Lahore, now Pakistan.

More prosaically, it is also believed that Shalimar was born when Monsieur Guerlain was playing with vanillin (synthetic vanilla), which was the hot perfume ingredient at the time. One story is that Shalimar was the result of him adding vanillin to his Uncle Aime's iconic fragrance Jicky.

Whatever the truth of the matter, Shalimar is undoubtedly one of the great success stories of modern European perfumery. Ernest Beaux, creator of Chanel No.5, said at that time that, "When I use vanilla, I make creme brulee; when Jacque Guerlain uses vanilla, he makes Shalimar!"

Review of Shalimar by GuerlainShalimar takes time to reveal itself fully; it is a perfume that one slowly sinks into. Its success lies in its contrasts.

The top note (smelt on initial application) is the light, invigorating blend of bergamot and citrus, but after a short time the rich heart notes of opoponax (sweet myrrh) and florals come through. Later, the base notes of vanilla and musk deepen the experience, giving an animalic sensuality. It is certainly a sexy scent to be worn by a charismatic woman.

Shalimar's most famous image is the Baccarat crystsal bottle with the blue stopper, designed in 1925. It holds the extrait de parfum.

Due to a legal battle with a rival perfume house that produced another fragrance of the same name, there are very rare and valuable bottles from 1925 with 'No. 90' on them. They were produced for export.

Biography of Jacques Guerlain

Jacques Guerlain is perhaps the most highly regarded 'nose' of the family. His first fragrance was the ladylike Apres L'Ondee (1906). As well as Shalimar he also redefined the chypre genre with Mitsouko. A third generation Guerlain, his Uncle Aime brought in the modern era of perfume with his use of synthetics in Jicky. Jacques taught his grandson Jean-Paul, who created Habit Rouge (1955) and Samsara (1989), amongst others.

The copyright of the article Vintage Perfume - Shalimar by Guerlain in Perfume is owned by Victoria Robinson. Permission to republish Vintage Perfume - Shalimar by Guerlain in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.